Modern Farmhouse Kitchen Towels



The modern farmhouse trend shows no signs of going out of style. This trend combines old and new in a rustic and chic way. It’s a contemporary style that feels like home. Today let’s focus on the kitchen by creating a set of country kitchen towels. You’ll be surprised how simple they are to sew and how much character they add to your kitchen. Also, you can personalize them with a simple monogram using your embroidery module. You won’t be able to stop at two! I think birthday and holiday gifts will be so much fun to make this year! Let’s get started!

Machine setup


  • 1 meter of cotton or linen ticking fabric
  • Mettler Silk Finish Cotton Thread 50 Weight
  • Schmetz or needle stitching for size 80 jeans
  • Dritz seam gauge
  • Rotary cutter and ruler
  • Iron

Fabric preparation

Cut 2 main pieces 22″ x 29″ and 2 accent pieces 4″ x 29″. On all fabric pieces, the lines will be parallel to the 29 inch side. Visually, your napkins will look much better this way. No need to match the lines, which is virtually impossible with the slightly ruffled accent piece.


Double-fold hem

With smaller pieces, iron a double-fold hem along a 29-inch side. Use a seam gauge or seam gauge to press the first ply at 1/4″ and the second ply at 3/8″. Pin in place to secure.


Do the same with the larger pieces on 3 sides, leaving one short end unfolded. This time, press 1/2″ twice.


The dark gray in the image below shows where the hems should be pressed and pinned.



To reduce clutter in corners and create attractive mitered corners, follow these steps:

  1. Unfold a pressed corner so you have a crease on each side.


  1. Fold one corner along the fold line. Press.



  1. Cut off the top half of the corner to reduce bulk.


  1. Fold the sides again to create the mitered corner. Press and pin in place.


It takes a little practice but it’s worth it. Your kitchen towels will look very professional!


Attach edge stitch foot No. 10/10C/10D. Increase the stitch length to 2.75 mm and move the needle position to 3. Place the needle up/down stopper in the down position.


Place the side hem against the center foot guide. Lower your steering wheel to check needle placement. Sew along one side, slowing down as you approach the first corner.


Sew a few straight stitches in the corner hem. Use your freehand system to raise the foot slightly, if necessary.


With the needle down, pivot and check placement. The center guide should be against the next hem. Otherwise, adjust accordingly by taking an extra stitch or backstitching. Continue until all three sides are sewn.


Do the same for the piece of decorative fabric sewn on one side. Doesn’t the border stitch foot make this sewing technique so easy and fun? I love the beautiful topstitching!


It’s time to drive!

The BERNINA #86 Ruffle Foot looks intimidating but is simple once you understand the different parts. On the stand you will notice an adjustment lever and an adjustment screw.


The adjustment lever has 4 settings. The numbers indicate the frequency of pleating or ruffles – 12 creates a pleat or ruffle once every 12 stitches, 6 every 6 stitches, and 1 every stitch. Setting 0 will not cause creases or ruffles, allowing you to sew straight stitches without having to remove the foot.


The adjustment screw allows you to adjust the depth of the fold or ruffle. A small screwdriver is supplied with the foot. Turn the screw clockwise for deep creases perfect for knife pleats and counterclockwise for a tousled look.


Let’s attach the flying foot! This foot attaches to the machine in the same way as other BERNINA feet: insert the rod into the cone and attach the lever. There is one difference: the U-shaped arm. If you own Walking Foot #50, this will be familiar to you. The U-shaped arm is placed on the needle bar allowing the foot to count stitches with the movement of the needle bar.


Place the adjustment lever at 12. Turn the adjustment screw so that it makes a few rotations to the left of the black metal bracket. It’s not an exact science here, so test the seam first.


For machine settings, increase the stitch length to 3mm. Place the beginning of the fabric strip in the ruffle foot about 1″ in front of the black ruffle blade.


Sew and align the fabric strip with the 5/8″ mark on the sliding table.


I love watching this foot in action!




French seams for the final

Pair a main fabric piece with a ruffled piece to get two sets. Find the center along the raw edge of the main fabric piece and ruffle and insert a pin to mark.


Place the main piece and ruffle wrong sides together along the raw edges. Pin the centers together. Pin left and right of center. The shuttlecock should extend approximately 1 to 2 feet on each side.


Fold the ends of the ruffle inside out and press flat. Pin in place.


Attach reverse pattern foot No. 1/1C/1D. Select Straight Stitch #1 and keep the straight stitch length at 2.75mm. Place the seam under the foot at the 3/8″ mark which is the right outer edge of the foot. Stitch. You will feel like everything is wrong and you will say out loud, “Julie, that’s not right! “Believe me, it’s correct. French seams always look wrong from the first step.


You now have two lines of stitches. The first is to make the steering wheel.


Place the fabric inside out on the ironing mat. Note the raw edges. We’re going to hide those ugly edges in our French seam.


Fold the ruffle along the seam and press lightly.


Place the fabric under the foot at the 1/2″ mark on the needle plate. Stitch. You can feel the raw edges under the ruffled fabric to make sure they are inside the seam.


Now all raw edges are hidden inside the seam. The French seam on the back has a flap with the raw edges closed.


Here is the French seam on the front. It looks like regular sewing.


The final touch

For a finished look, topstitch the front along the seam. I increased the stitch length to 3.5mm due to the multiple layers of fabric. Also, I prefer a longer stitch here.


I used the height compensation tool at the beginning and end to overcome the ends of the bent ruffles. This prevents skipped stitches – those super long stitches that look bad!


Option: If you have Walking Foot #50, this would be a great time to use it with the thick coats. The Walking Foot is my choice for thick and/or multiple layers.


If you want to secure the ends of the ruffles, Bartack Pattern #25 is a simple stitch that works great for a modern farmhouse look.


Place the folded ends of the ruffles under the reverse pattern foot #1/1C/1D. I placed mine about 1″ from the bottom of the steering wheel.


Here you can use the Start/Stop button. The Bartack program will sew a reinforcement and attachment point at the end. So simple!


I am in love with these kitchen towels! And you can add a monogram using the embroidery side of your B 790 PLUS. What a special gift this would make for someone! And BERNINA 9.1 embroidery software have unlimited options, from simple to elaborate designs. It’s time to make gifts for some upcoming birthdays! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and can’t wait to see your tea towels!



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