Finishing a skirt slit – tutorial

Finishing a skirt slit – tutorial

Carefully finishing a slit skirt was a long search for the best way for me, and I think I found mine.
Of course, I’m happy to share it here as well and I’m curious what you think.
I myself went to work with an elongated version of the Jules top (look at the model here), to add a long dress to my wardrobe.
However, I had to make slits in the side seams, otherwise the dress would be much too narrow at the bottom ;-).
As always, I put the dress together with my BERNINE 480 and the essential Three-Sole Walking Foot with Sewing Guide #50

Image of a three-soled walking foot with sewing guide #50.

Three-Sole Walking Foot with Sewing Guide #50

With three soles for sewing, quilting and topstitching ✓ Perfect fabric feed and even stitch formation ✓ Seam guides help you sew with precision ✓ Stretchy or sticky materials ✓

Learn more

Image of the BERNINA 480.


The B 480 is intended for all amateur seamstresses and tailors who love beautiful design but also sophisticated automatic functions. A brilliantly simple machine.

Learn more


  • model
  • fabric
  • overlocker
  • sewing machine


1. Make lunge marks

If you’re working with a pattern that doesn’t originally have a slit, you can choose how high it will come.
I marked mine about 30cm above the hem.
You can mark it with a pin on all side seams.

Roksplit works - tutorial

2. Pinning and sewing the side seams

Pin the front and back side seams, right sides together.
Don’t forget to where your slit will be sewn (I put double pins to remember this ;-)), because you will be sewing exactly towards this point.

Now sew from the top of your side seam exactly down to your slit mark and backstitch.

Roksplit works - tutorial

Press the side seam open, also iron the seam allowance of your open slit towards the hem.

Roksplit works - tutorial

Finish your sewing with your overlocker.
I use my BERNINA L 890.

Image of the BERNINA L 890.


The L 890 is perfectly suited to working with all types of fabrics, both knitted and woven. With BERNINA one-step air threader ✓ Intuitive operation via touchscreen ✓ Fast, precise and quiet ✓ Made by BERNINA ✓ 100% designed and manufactured in Switzerland ✓

Learn more

Roksplit works - tutorial

3. Press the hem

You have already ironed the seam allowance of your slit inward in the previous step.
Now press your hem allowance as well.

Roksplit works - tutorial

4. Make marks

Indicate where the lines of the skirt slit and hem allowance meet.
In the image below you can see exactly where this is.

Then unfold the hem allowance and seam allowance of the skirt slit again.

Turn right up, now you can see exactly where your 2 marks are.

5. Folding and sewing marks

Carefully fold the two marks together, right sides together on the fabric.
Pin in place.

Now also mark the meeting point of the two pressed lines (of the split seam allowance and the hem).

Connect this point to the pinned marks.
You will sew a line exactly from one point to the other.

After sewing, cut off the excess fabric.

6. Press the corner and finish the seams.

Now carefully push the corner out and press flat.

You repeat all these steps for all corners (2 if you have 1 slot, 4 if you have 2 slots)

Then topstitch the slit(s) and the hem and that’s it!


Don’t forget to let me know what you think :-).

Love, Isabelle

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