You can take advantage of grain bias in couture clothing in two ways:
- Sections of garment or entire garments can be cut on the bias to create interesting effects in the drape, cut and visual design of the garment, or
- Bias-cut strips of fabric can be used to connect edges and create piping for both decorative and functional purposes.
Madame Vionnet said: “There are three grains: lengthwise, across and diagonally. We must understand them all.
The fear of working with prejudices was ingrained in many of us from a young age. Some sewing teachers spoke of it as an enemy to never understand and to keep at bay. Bias is not a disease: it is a grain of tissue that, when respected, can be used to your advantage to produce remarkable results.
Prejudices sometimes have a mind of their own, but with understanding comes control. Sewing is all about bias. When you know how to manage bias, you're a seamstress!
- Bias binding is thinner than straight thread and crossed thread.
- Prejudices do not fade.
- Prejudices do not wrinkle.
- The bias is soft and rounded.
- True bias is grain that flows at one
- 45 degree angle to longitudinal and transverse grains.
When working with bias, the fabric must be perfectly grained and the bias line established.
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