Working on bias grain (preview)

You can take advantage of grain bias in couture clothing in two ways:

  1. Sections of garment or entire garments can be cut on the bias to create interesting effects in the drape, cut and visual design of the garment, or
  2. Bias-cut strips of fabric can be used to connect edges and create piping for both decorative and functional purposes.

Madame Vionnet said: “There are three grains: lengthwise, across and diagonally. We must understand them all.

The fear of working with prejudices was ingrained in many of us from a young age. Some sewing teachers spoke of it as an enemy to never understand and to keep at bay. Bias is not a disease: it is a grain of tissue that, when respected, can be used to your advantage to produce remarkable results.

Prejudices sometimes have a mind of their own, but with understanding comes control. Sewing is all about bias. When you know how to manage bias, you're a seamstress!

  • Bias binding is thinner than straight thread and crossed thread.
  • Prejudices do not fade.
  • Prejudices do not wrinkle.
  • The bias is soft and rounded.
  • True bias is grain that flows at one
  • 45 degree angle to longitudinal and transverse grains.

When working with bias, the fabric must be perfectly grained and the bias line established.

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