As a gentle chill fills the air, there's no denying that fall is here, and with its arrival comes our latest free sewing pattern: The Amélie Pea Coat. This model has been in the works for a while and we're excited to finally release it! Pea coats have been around for centuries and prove to be a timeless style that offers both warmth and style. Originally designed for naval and military use, the peacoat dates back to the 18th century. These heavy, double-breasted coats have been made from durable, water-resistant wool to protect against harsh maritime conditions. Even though we won't be wearing our Amélie pea coat to sail the high seas anytime soon, we're sure it will keep us warm and dry throughout the harsh New York winters!
This advanced sewing pattern is designed to help you create a sophisticated and stylish peacoat that will keep you warm all season long. With its welt pockets, full lining and ventilated back, the Amélie peacoat is a great project to improve your sewing skills. And your fall wardrobe.
The Amelie pea coat is advanced, with welt pockets, full lining and a ventilated back. This is a great project to improve your sewing skills And your fall wardrobe! If welt pockets or vented backing aren't familiar to you, or you're a little rusty, it's always a good idea to use scraps of fabric first until you've perfected the method and that you are confident enough to switch to fashion fabric.
Purchase the materials used below:
- 3 meters of solid boiled wool Ketil Adobe Brown
- 2.5 meters of iridescent orange and aqua twill lining
- 1 spool of Gutterman 554 Rust sewing thread 250 m
- 4 black plastic covering buttons 48 L
- MD355 – The Caban Amélie sewing pattern (free download below!)
Recommended alternative fabrics:
- The Alberini wool/cashmere collection
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All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise noted. See table below for sizing specifications. Please note, this specific pattern is available up to size 32.
Before we begin, here are some suggestions for working with our boiled wool:
- This fabric tends to bulk up, which can be frustrating when sewing something structured and detailed. Use iron-on interfacing on all pieces of fabric to give it a structured look. It was a lesson I didn't learn before After while sewing the coat, and as you can see, despite my best efforts, it looks a little too baggy for my liking.
- Note the seam allowance! Which is essential.
- Use pins to keep the layers from stretching as you sew.
- A walking foot works wonders with this fabric! It's not essential, but I highly recommend using one.
- Tearing seams is difficult due to the texture of the fabric. Make sure you feel confident before sewing with the boiled wool.
Before sewing your back pieces together, mark the ½” seam allowance at the vent and bottom edge. Mark the two points at the top of the vent where the seam allowances intersect. Sew the center together, working stopping when you reach the top point (#1).
How to sew the lining:
1 – Sew the pieces together as shown above. Sew the center together, but stop when you reach the top point of the vent (#1).
2 – Sew the shoulders.
3 – Press everything well.
4 – Sew an upper sleeve to an under sleeve, RST, lengthwise. Repeat with the other sleeve. Press.
5 – Ease the stitch along the top edge of each sleeve. Leave the thread tails long enough to pull and do not backstitch. Pull one of the thread tails and loosen the sleeve shoulder cap enough to fit the armhole of the coat.
6 – Pin RST, align notches and sew. Repeat with the other sleeve.
Set aside the liner for now!
How to sew pockets:
Before we assemble the outer shell, let's start with the pockets!
1 – Precisely mark the top and bottom welt pockets on all front jacket parts. Draw the entire outline, as well as the central line.
2 – Cut strips of iron-on interfacing to completely cover the piped pockets. Iron them on the wrong side front jacket partsdirectly below where the welt pockets will go.
3 – Use a contrasting colored thread and delicately brush the markings on your right side pocket by hand. Make sure the color you choose is not only visible on the fabric, but also on the iron-on interface.
4 – Iron the interfacing on the wrong side of all the piped pieces, then iron in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
5 – Iron the interfacing over the pocket flaps, then sew RST along the sides and bottom. Leave the top edge free. Trim the seam allowance, trim the curves, turn right side out and iron. If you are adding topstitching details, do it now. Repeat with the other pocket flap.
6 – Align the raw edge of a bottom pocket piping so it's on the middle line. I used a glue stick on the inside of the square only, which helped hold the welt in place while sewing. Alternatively, you can use pins.
7 – On another welt, pin, glue or baste a pocket flap. The raw edges of the welt and flap should be aligned.
8 – Piping side down, attach the piping + pocket flap to the top half of the pocket, using one of the methods mentioned above. The raw edges should be aligned with the center line of the pocket marks.
9 – Flip to the wrong side and sew two parallel lines just above the basting stitches. Be as specific as possible. Do not sew beyond the ends of the rectangle!
10 – Cut in the center line, entering from the wrong side. Before you get to the ends of the pocket, cut from the center line toward the ends of each welt. Do not cut the welts or pocket flap.
11 – Turn the welts and pocket flap over so that their raw edges are completely hidden on the right side of the jacket.
12 – Sew the cut ends into a triangle on the welts. Make sure the folded edges of the welts are lying flat and not on top of each other.
13 – Align the top edge of the bottom pocket of the bag with the raw edge of the top welt. The right side of the pocket bag should be against the back of the pocket. Sew.
14 – Repeat with the bottom edge of the pouch bag, aligning it with the raw edge of the bottom welt. Sew.
15 – Push the pocket flap back in the right direction, then sew the sides together.
Repeat these steps for the top pocket piping, but you are omitting the pocket flap.
How to sew the coat:
1 – Sew the jacket pieces together by assembling the pieces as shown above. Remember to stop sewing once you reach point #1 at the top of the vent.
2 – If you topstitch, do it now.
3 – Sew the shoulders together.
4 – As for the lining, sew the sleeves then attach them to the shell.
How to sew the vent:
1 – Clip in the corner of the left lining, through point no. 1. Place the needle at point #1, lift the presser foot and rotate the left lining so you can now sew the top vent angle together. Stop once you understand point #2.
2 – On the outer layer, sew the two back pieces together from point no. 1 to no. 2.
3 – Place the outer back right sides together. Use the CB seam line to determine where the outer vent (right) should be folded and press.
4 – Turn over and fold the hem seam allowance. Find where the two raw edges meet and mark. Turn right side out and sew together to create a mitered corner.
5 – Place the lining and the exterior RST.
6 – Match point n°2 on the lining and exterior.
7 – Mark on the lining where the bottom raw edge is located. Sew RST, starting at stitch #2, stopping once you reach this mark.
8 – Fold the raw edge of the lining upwards, so that it is aligned with the raw edge of the exterior. Pin.
9 – Turn the lining over so that it is right side out. Turn both layers inside out and sew together. This will require a little patience. You won't be able to sew all the way to the corner, but sew as far as you can. If you need a more beginner-friendly method, you can hand sew a blind stitch.
Your exterior vent should now look like this from the inside.
10 – On the inside slit, align the bottom edges of the two layers, RST, and sew a few centimeters from the center back.
11 – Match stitch #2 on the lining and exterior, and pin along the vent seam allowance. Since the liner is shorter than the exterior, you'll notice that the folded bottom edges don't fit perfectly. The lining fold should be approximately ½” shorter than the exterior fold, as shown above. Note: I cut off the seam allowance for clarity.
12 – Turn the right side out and press.
Before moving on to the next section, sSew the RST collar pieces, along the top and sides. Cut the corners, turn right side out, iron and topstitch.
How to attach the liner:
1 – Continue sewing the lining outwards, RST, along the bottom edge.
2 – Once you arrive at the front, pin the top of the front of the facing and the jacket, all the way to the bottom. As with the vent, you will see that the liner is shorter than the exterior. You will use the same method as step 11 in the previous section.
3 – Sew the entire length of the central front edges.
4 – With the two layers still RST, sandwich the collar between the two at the neckline. The raw edges should all line up and the notches should match. Pin well.
5 – Sew the entire upper edge of the coat.
6 – Use a seam ripper to open one of the seam linings approximately 6”. Pull the coat through so it is right side out.
7 – Iron well and topstitch the details you want to highlight.
How to finish the coat:
1 – Line up the raw edges of the lining and exterior sleeves, and baste or pin securely to hold in place.
2 – RST, fold the cuff pieces widthwise and sew. Press the seam open, then press the cuff lengthwise to make two cuffs.
3 – Place the cuff on the pinned or basted edge of the sleeve. Line up the seam with the inside seam of the sleeve and sew together. Push the SA towards the sleeve and topstitch.
4 – Sew the buttons and buttonholes.