Tessuti skirt with multi-elastic waist: a sewing tutorial – Sew Tessuti Blog

Here is a simple skirt we call the Multi-Elastic Waist Skirt. Wordy, sure, but also precise. The design includes pockets (optional) and a waistband comprising three rows of elastic passing through three tunnel housings. It was completely inspired by the arrival of this 100% linen View of Venice. We fell in love with the design and Silva decided to create a simple style to highlight the exceptional print. The resulting skirt was so striking that we thought we'd share this simple tutorial with you all.

If necessary, finish the raw edges with an overlock. If you don't have a serger/overlocker, you can finish the raw edges with a wide zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.

Let's go! The materials you need are:

  • 2.20 m of fabric 135 to 140 cm wide – Recommended fabrics are lightweight fabrics that drape and gather easily, e.g. linen, wool crepe, silk, cotton, viscose. Cut out the pockets from the scraps after cutting out the front and back skirt
  • Thread
  • Elastic 15-16mm (5/8″) wide (approximately 3 x your waist/hip height) – we used this 16mm scalloped elastic but most elastics will do the trick (avoid high density and too firm elastics)
  • Pocket pattern piece – Download here
  • Erasable marker pen
  • Bodkin/safety pin
  • Tape measure

Prepare the fabric

Step A – Cut the skirt front and backUsing the following formula, cut out 2 rectangles* from pre-washed and ironed fabric:

  • Length = finished length (waist to hem) + 8.25 cm/3¼” (for the cut facing) + 4 cm/1½”) (for the hem)
  • Width = ½ x finished circumference + 1″ (for seam allowances)

*Suggested measurements for the following sizes below:

Size AUS 6-8-10 – cut 2 rectangles measuring 104cm/41″ (length) x 100cm/39″ (width)

Size AUS 12-14 – cut 2 rectangles measuring 104cm/41″ (length) x 104cm/41″ (width)

Size AUS 16-18 – cut 2 rectangles measuring 104cm/41″ (length) x 109cm/43″ (width)

Size AUS 20-22 – cut 2 rectangles measuring 104cm/41″ (length) x 114cm/45″ (width)

ADVICE: To ensure the cut edge of your fabric is perpendicular to the selvedge, trim the selvage and fabric approximately ¼”. Grasp and gently pull a weft thread (across the grain) to remove it from the weave. The line of the missing thread will be your cutting line. Do the same for the warp thread (lengthwise thread).

Step B – Mark facing and pocket notches on side seams Download, print and cut out the Tessuti pocket pattern (link).

On the sides of the two rectangles, mark a notch of 8.25 cm (3¼“) from the top. This will be the fold line of the facing.

On the sides of both rectangles, mark a second notch 21.5 cm (8½”) from the top. This will be the top of the pocket opening.

With the right edge of the Tessuti pocket pattern against the side of the rectangle, match the top notch (notch A) of the pocket with the notch 21.5 cm (8½”) from the top of the skirt. At the the lower notch (notch B), mark a third notch on the skirt.

On the sides of the two rectangles, make a notch 4 cm from the bottom. This will be the fold line of the hem.

Step C – Cut the PocketsUsing the Tessuti pocket pattern, cut 2 pairs of pockets in the fabric of your choice.

Step 1 – Attach the pockets to the fronts:With the right sides facing each other and aligning notches A and B, pin a pocket piece to the left and right sides of the front.

Sew a ½” seam allowance, from notch A to notch B. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

At notches A and B, clip very close to the seam, taking care not to cut the seams.

Between notches A and B, overlock the seam allowances together.

Turn the front pocket over, with the seam allowance facing the pocket. Starting/ending ½” from the notches, understitch on the right side of the pocket, near the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowance at the back. Backstitch at start and end.

Turn the pocket to the wrong side of the front and turn the seam allowances (above and below the notch points) to the right side. Press.

In preparation, topstitch around the pocket opening, pin the front and pocket together.

Starting at the edge of the side seam at the notch at one end of the pocket opening, sew ¼” (about 3-4 stitches) through the end of the pocket opening.

Leaving the needle in the fabric, raise your presser foot and pivot to change direction. Lower the presser foot and sew ¼” from the edge of the pocket opening.

At the end (at the opposite notch), pivot again and sew to the edge of the side seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

With right sides together and taking care to match the notches, place the remaining pocket on top of the attached pocket. Pin in place.

Sew a 3/8″ seam allowance around the curved edge of the pocket. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Overlock the seam allowance of the curved edge together.

Make sure the pocket lies flat and the pocket seam allowance is exposed ½” beyond the front pocket opening.

To attach the pocket to the front, sew the seam allowances together at each end of the pocket opening, taking a ½” seam allowance.

Repeat for the other side.

Step 2 – Join the Front and Back at the Sides (NOTE: One side seam requires openings for a 3 row elastic tunnel)

With right sides together and matching notches, pin the fronts and backs together at the sides.

On the finished right side only, sew a ½” seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Overlock the seam allowances together. Iron the seam allowances to the back.

On the left side only, mark the openings for the elastic tunnels. Starting at the top edge, mark ¼“, then 3 x ⅝” openings, separated by ½”.

Leaving ⅝” openings (marked X) to insert the elastic into the tunnel at a later stage, sew a ½” seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Clip it further into the notch marking of the opposite fold line. Overlock the seam allowances together, from the hem to the notch.

Iron the seam allowances to the back. Above the notch, press the seam allowance open. Trim the corners of the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Step 3 – Prepare the tunnel casingHolding point ¼» from the upper edge of the skirt.

Flip the top edge of the skirt 3 ¼» backwards. Press.

Topstitched upper waist edge. This gives a flat finish to the waistline.

Clean the raw edge by pressing with your finger toward the wrong side when sewing.

Pin the tunnel casing in place along the neat edge, matching the side seams and making sure the tunnel casing lies flat.

Topstitch along the neat edge of the tunnel casing. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Between the two rows of edge stitching, sew four rows of stitching to form a tunnel casing – 3 ⅝” wide tunnels separated by 2 x ½”. TIP: Sew the first row ⅝” from the top edge, then mark the seam lines with a removable marker as a guide.

Step 4 – Pass the elastic through the openings in the tunnel housing

Cut a length of good quality elastic 15-16mm (⅝”) wide so that it fits securely around the waist. Cut a second and third length of elastic, 2.5cm (1 “) longer and 5 cm (2”) longer than the first.

*For our Australian size 10 sample, we cut 66cm (26″) for the first row, 69cm (27″) for the second row and 71cm (28″) for the third row. As a guide, these lengths vary approximately 1″ between sizes, but cut the elastic based on your measurements and the type of elastic used.

Using a grommet or safety pin and making sure the elastic does not twist, pass the elastic through the opening in the tunnel housing until you come out the other end through the opening. Start with the shortest length in the upper tunnel. Use the next longest length for the middle tunnel and the longest length for the bottom tunnel.

Overlap the ends of the elastic together by ½” and sew the ends of the elastic together by hand or machine. Backstitch securely.Step 5 – Hem the SkirtHolding point ¼” from the edge of the skirt hem. Clean the raw edge by pressing with your finger towards the wrong side when sewing.

Measure 3 cm (1¼“) and pin it along the neat edge.

On the wrong side of the skirt, sew a seam along the neat edge of the skirt hem. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Press.

You have finished! Enjoy wearing your Tessuti multi-elastic skirt. Don't forget to tag us #TessutiMultiElasticWaistSkirt #TessutiPatterns #SewTessuti on Instagram.
We like this technique because it's a more stable and comfortable alternative to gathers. You can add more (or fewer) casing tunnels and it works just as well for Dresses, as seen in this paper bag tie strap dress released a few years ago. Happy sewing!




Post Source

Related Articles

Back to top button
Digital AI Gallery - AI-Generated Digital ArtworkKoleksi Video Viral TerbaruKoleksi Bacol China TerlengkapChinaAV Video PortalDigital Magazine FreeBeauty Pictures Generated by AIFree Magazine For ManKoleksi Situs Dewasa Khusus 18+