Shacket Redux

The changing of the seasons is always an inspiring time for seamstresses. Our minds are full of projects, designs and textures that reflect changing temperatures, sometimes inspiring an ambitious wardrobe update or two. For our first fall project, we wanted to revamp a Sewciety fan favorite: The Savannah Shacket. With fall tweeds in mind, we wanted to combine the casual comfort of the jacket with the iconic glamor of a Chanel tweed jacket. Borrowing Chanel's notorious eye for detail, we've adorned this stunning piece with a hoodie, eye-catching contrast velvet trim, swoon-worthy cream and gold buttons and those must-have pockets. It's old-school chic meets today's cool, and your wardrobe will thank you for this upgrade.

Purchase the materials used below:

  • 2.5 meters of Newcastle Beige and White Chenille Tweed
  • 5 meters of Brown Single Face Velvet Ribbon 2″
  • Gold and Ivory Metallic Plastic Shank Button 4 Pieces
  • Brown rice cotton twill ribbon, 4 meters
  • MDF280 – The Savannah Shacket sewing pattern (free download below!)
  • MDF218 – Buis Hoodie Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Recommended alternative fabrics:

  • Boiled wool
  • Loop

Download the Savannah Shacket here!

Print pages 4 to 23, 26 to 36 and 39 to 41

Download the Boxwood Hoodie here!

Print pages 23-25 ​​and 29-31

I made the following adjustments to the model:

  • Shortened the sheath
  • Omit the necklace
  • The sleeves have been tapered and the button placket and cuffs omitted
  • Added pockets
  • Replacement of the button placket with a velvet ribbon
  • Trimmed all edges with velvet ribbon
  • Twill tape added to the seams for added stability
  • Added a hood design from the Boxwood hoodie

Working with this particular tweed requires a bit of patience. The seams become very bulky and the fabric frays easily. I recommend using a walking foot and finishing the raw edges with an overlocker or covering them with bias tape or twill tape. Twill tape will help the garment maintain its shape. Do not use French seams on this fabric!

Before you begin, determine the size of the hoodie you need to cut. To do this, cut the collar of the jacket to the size you are sewing and compare it to the bottom edge of the hoodie. Choose the one closest in size.

1 – Mark 2″ from the side seams on the front and back jacket pieces. Draw a straight line and cut.

2 – With the jacket now cut, cut along the fold line that runs the length of the front.

3 – On the bottom of each sleeve, mark 1.5″ from the inside seam of the sleeve, and extend the line to the armpit. Do not remove any width from the armpits. We omitted the cuff, so cut off the excess so the outer seam can be completely sewn to the cuff.

4 – Your sleeve pieces should now look like this!

5 – Draw a 5×6 inch pocket, then cut 4 of your fabric.

6 – If using ribbon as trim, cut 4 strips 6″ long.

7 -Sew the border to the top of the pockets.

Note: I wanted the outside and inside edges to be covered, so I chose a wide ribbon and folded it over the raw edge instead of just applying it to the right side. Since I was sewing with velvet, I wanted the front stitches to be completely undetectable. The velvet ribbon had a small edge on each side that did not contain the nap. I carefully sewed on it. I left the bottom slightly longer than the front, just to make sure it was sewn on both sides, as shown above.

8 – If you sew with this fabric, sew twill tape or clear elastic In the shoulder seam allowance, on the wrong side. This ensures that the shoulder seam will not stretch or expand over time.

8 – If you sew with this fabric, sew twill tape or clear elastic In the shoulder seam allowance, on the wrong side. This ensures that the shoulder seam will not stretch or expand over time. Repeat with arms.

9 – Sew the front to the back, along the shoulders and side seams. Finish the raw edges.

10 – Sew a sleeve to a sleeve on the back, right sides together. Sew the sleeve into the armhole, finish the raw edges and repeat on the other side.

11 – As for the pocket, cut the cuffs with the ribbon.

12 – Cut the edges of the sleeve with the ribbon. I used one continuous piece of ribbon and finished the top edges (at the neck) by sewing the ends of the ribbon right sides together. In the bottom corners I simply folded the corners as shown above.

13 – Sew the sweatshirt pieces together at the center seam and cut with the ribbon.

14 – Pin the hoodie to the jacket, right sides together. Before you start sewing the two together, add the twill tape and catch the edge in the seam allowance. Leave an extra length of twill tape on each end.

15 – Cut the seam allowance. Pull the hood away from the jacket, fold the excess twill tape underneath and pin it to the jacket. The twill tape should hide the seam allowance. Sew the other side of the twill tape to the shirt.

16 – Add the buttons and buttonholes.

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