Mastering Knit Chokers

Learn how to make a stunning winter cape with our new sew-on Crested Butte cape!.

Ready to master the knitted choker? Learn three different techniques to create a professional finish.

What you will learn

Knit chokers present their own set of challenges. Done well, they provide the finishing touch and serve an essential purpose, adding structure and fit to the neckline of knit garments. In this article, you will learn these techniques:

How to install a choker on an open pattern such as a knit cardigan.

Pro tips for tying a ribbed knit choker or choker.

How to calculate the appropriate neckband length if a pattern piece is not included.

Ribbed neck warmer

Ribbing features distinctive lengthwise ribbed knitting stitches on the right and wrong sides and is used to create collars and cuffs on knitted garments. Learn how to use ribbing to create a T-shirt neckband with professional polish.

Supplies

Knitted fabric (quantity according to pattern envelope)

Ribbed edge (amount according to neckline measurement)

Prepare

Build the T-shirt according to the pattern guide, finishing before finishing the neckline.

Fold the shirt in half lengthwise, aligning the edges of the neckline. Measure the neckline; save. Multiply the measurement by two, then subtract 15%; record as neck length measurement.

Sidescut a rectangle that measures 2¼” x the neckband length measurement along the cross stretch.

To find the neckband cut width, multiply the desired finished neckline width by two, then add the seam allowance. For the neckband shown, the finished width is ¾” with a ⅜” seam allowance.

Construction

Use ⅜” seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Installing an extendable needle in the machine. Select a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. If you are using a serger, install two extendable needles into the machine. Test a stitch of knitted fabric to find the correct stitch length and tension.

Fold the neckband in half widthwise, right sides together; sew the short ends.

Fold the neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together; baste the raw edges, stretching them slightly while sewing (1).

Mark a quarter turn on the neck circumference edges and opening of the neckline.

Position the neck strap on the edge of the neckline, right sides together and align the quarter marks; pin (2). Sew, stretching the binding between the quarters to match the edge of the neckline. (3).

Iron the seam allowance towards the back of the shirt. Sew in the ditch along the neckband/shirt seam line on the right side (4).

Neck warmer in identical fabric

Neck warmer knitted in the same fabric

Choose a choker in the same fabric for a cohesive look. It's similar to a ribbed choker, but it's longer and doesn't have as much recovery stretch.

Supplies

Knitted fabric (quantity per pattern envelope plus ⅛ yard)

Prepare

Build the T-shirt according to the pattern guide, finishing before finishing the neckline.

Fold the shirt in half lengthwise, aligning the edges of the neckline. Measure the neckline; save. Multiply the measurement by two, then subtract 10%. Add ¾” for seam allowance; record as neck length measurement.

Fabric, cut a rectangle that measures 2¼” x the length measurement of the neckband along the cross stretch.

Fold the binding in half widthwise, right sides together; sew the short ends. Fold the binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides together; baste the raw edges, stretching them slightly as you sew.

Construction

Use ⅜” seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Installing an extendable needle in the machine. Select a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. If you are using a serger, install two extendable needles into the machine. Test a stitch of knitted fabric to find the correct stitch length and tension.

Mark a quarter turn on the neck circumference edges and opening of the neckline.

Position the neck strap on the edge of the neckline, right sides together and align the quarter marks; pin. Sew, stretching the binding between the quarters to match the edge of the neckline.

Iron the seam allowances towards the shirt. Sew in the ditch along the neckband/shirt seam line from the right side.

Double pleated choker

Double-pleated knit neckline

Add a double-pleated choker to an open cardigan for a distinctive accent that hides raw edges on both sides.

Supplies

Knitted fabric (quantity according to pattern envelope)

Prepare

Fold the vest in half lengthwise, aligning the center front/neckline edges. Measure the edge of the front/neckline of the cardigan, then add ¾” for seam allowances; record as neckline length.

Multiply the desired neck size width by two, then add ¾” for seam allowances; save.

Fabric, cut two strips based on the length and width measurements of the neckband.

Construction

Use ⅜” seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

With right sides together, sew the strips together along a short edge; press to open the seam.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together; press. Sew each short end.

Turn the group right side. Fold the strip in half lengthwise; press, then unfold.

With right sides togetherPin the strip along the center front/neckline edge of the cardigan, aligning the raw edges and matching the seam of the strip and the center back of the cardigan. (5). Sew along the center front/neckline edge.

Iron the seam allowances towards the group. Fold the strip along the center crease toward the wrong side of the cardigan, covering the raw edges and aligning the folded edge of the strip just beyond the previous seam; pin (6).

Point in the ditch along the seam line of the cardigan/band from the right side.


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