How to sew welt pockets

Save $50 on our popular Overlock master class with Katrina Walker with the code SERGERLOVE until September 15!

Coat season is fast approaching, and it's time to truly test our sewing prowess by crafting exquisite coats and jackets. Few skills in sewing rival the mastery of welt pockets. These nifty little pockets are the hallmark of craftsmanship, and we're about to delve into some of the secrets of their creation.

Venturing deep into the sacred archives of sew news, I came across a treasure trove of knowledge from Barbara Weiland in September 1990. It is remarkable how timeless the art of welt pocket making is. Welt pockets remain an essential feature of a well-made jacket or coat, no matter the year or decade. My sewing friends, are you ready to use the awesome welt pocket and take your sewing prowess to new heights? Let the pocket sewing begin!

Handled brands

by Barbara Weiland

If double-welted pockets have doubled your sewing headache, don't throw in the towel yet! Try the method below, adapted from Easy adaptation, simpler, simpler by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch, and discover how easy they can be.

These stylish pockets look great on coats and dresses, as well as coat dresses. Create them on your own trench dress or double the fun on the sewn creation of your choice.

Preparation

To familiarize yourself with this method, create a test pocket using fabric scraps from the garment.

1

Mark pocket placement lines on the wrong side of each appropriate piece of clothing to create a welt box with the short edges of the box parallel and on the straight grain. (Figure 1).

2

When working with fabrics that are easy to fray, stabilize the pocket area with a 1″ × 8″ strip of lightweight iron-on interfacing. Pink the edges and round the corners to form an oval, center the strip over the welt area on the wrong side of the garment and glue it in place (Figure 2).

3

For each pocket, cut a 3″ × 8″ rectangle from the garment fabric along the cross grain. Zigzag or overlock one long edge of each welt (Figure 3).

4

Cut an 8″ × 14″ rectangle from the lining fabric for each pocket bag (fits a double-piped pocket with a finished width of 6½”). On each pocket bag, position a long unfinished welt edge over the short edge of a pocket bag, with the welt wrong sides and lining right sides together and the raw edges even. Zigzag or overlock the raw edges together and straight sew the remaining long edge of the welt in place through the zigzag or the overlock (Figure 4).

5

Cut a 3″ × 8″ rectangle of lightweight, non-woven, non-fusible interface for the pocket holder and draw two parallel lines along its length, each ¼” from the longitudinal center of the rectangle (Figure 5).

6

Position the pocket reinforcement (interfacing rectangle) on the reverse side of the garment, matching the horizontal lines of the reinforcement with the long edges of the welt box; draw the ends of the piped box onto the backing (Figure 6).

7

On the right side of the garment, center the welt portion of the piping bag/pocket over the welt seam; pin (Figure 7).

8

On the wrong side of the garment, sew exactly above the welt seam (through all layers), finishing the seam precisely at the corners; carefully backstitch (Figure 8).

Sewing expert

9

On the wrong side of the garment, machine baste exactly ¼” from the pocket placement lines on all layers (Figure 9).

ten

On the right side of the garment, fold the piping bag/pocket firmly at the basting, press lightly and pin. On the wrong side of the garment, sew the bottom long edge of the welt above the previous seam, finishing the seam precisely at the corners; sew carefully (Figure 10). This will form the bottom welt.

11

On the right side of the garment, fold the piping bag/pocket at the top piping seam and pin. Fold the top of the piping over the basting line, press lightly and pin (Figure 11). On the wrong side of the garment, sew the upper long edge of the piping, finishing the seam precisely at the corners; backstitch carefully. This will form the top welt.

12

On the right side of the garment, cut the length of the welt to the ends of the welt, but not all the way to the end, without cutting the garment (Figure 12); remove the basting.

13

On the wrong side of the garment, cut the center of the welt box to within ¾” of the ends of the welt box, then cut diagonally across the corners to the middle of the last stitch on each end, but not to the end (Figure 13). Note: Cut only the garment fabric, not the welts.

14

Gently pull the pocket through the opening to the reverse side (Figure 14); press the welts on the right side of the garment, using an ironing cloth to prevent the fabric from shining. Note: If the welt corners are puckering and pulling and the welts do not sit flat in the pocket opening, pull the pocket through the slot on the right side of the garment and secure it closer to the pocket corners. the welt with very sharp double-pointed scissors.

15

On the right side of the garment, fold the garment over to sew and backstitch several times on the triangles formed at the ends of the welt (Figure 15).

16

On the right side of the garment, slide the unfinished edge of a completed pocket flap into a pocket opening and position the short edges of the flap to extend 1½” beyond the bottom edge of the top piping ; pin (Figure 16).

17

On the wrong side of the garment, sew the pocket flap only to the top welt, sewing as close to the previous seam as possible (Figure 17).

18

On the wrong side of the garment, fold the bottom edge of the pocket bag flush with the long edge of the top welt; fold the garment over and sew through the welt, flap and pocket bag edge ⅚” from the edges (Figure 18).

19

On the right side of the garment, fold the garment over to sew the sides of the pocket together, rounding the bottom corners (Figure 19). Rose the edges of the pocket bag.

More pocket feats

Check out these resources from Sew Daily.

Did you sew a coat? What is your best advice? Share it with us in the comments!

Happy sewing pockets and coats!


Post Source

Related Articles

Back to top button
Digital AI Gallery - AI-Generated Digital ArtworkKoleksi Video Viral TerbaruKoleksi Bacol China TerlengkapChinaAV Video PortalDigital Magazine FreeBeauty Pictures Generated by AIFree Magazine For ManKoleksi Situs Dewasa Khusus 18+