I think there must be an invisible giant poodle living in my house. She's dressed as a teenager and she's small, with little hands and feet that don't even weigh 75 pounds and yet when she walks out of the bathroom there's a cloud of Dracula following her. When the steam disperses, it reveals an unimaginable mess left behind. I wonder “in horror” how the ceiling, all the walls, the toilet paper and every inch of the bathroom floor could get wet? There must be a giant poodle somewhere, shaking water absolutely everywhere, which is my only explanation.
What really gets me is the wet floor. Not only can it be dangerous, but who likes walking around with wet socks? No store-bought bath mat is big enough for this mess, so I decided to make my own. It's large and easy to dry, but it's a nice change to what would otherwise be a boring bathroom. I live in a rental apartment, so there's not much I can do to change the color of the tiles, but I think this fringed bath rug will make me happy not to have to hide the bathroom when guests arrive. This will also help keep the floor dry and safe for everyone.
This bath mat uses canvas fabric for strength, non-slip and easy drying, as well as cotton cord threaded through the mat for added strength and texture. The rug has a lovely shaggy fringe. This was a lot of fun to make and it's really functional and attractive. There's also quite a bit of sewing to do, so it's good practice for beginners.
Step One: Cut and Stack the Fabric
Cut your printed canvas into 2 rectangles measuring 40″ x 50″.
Cut the plain canvas into 1 rectangle measuring 40″ x 50″.
You want to stack the fabric rectangles with the printed sides facing out and the plain canvas sandwiched in between.
Step Two: Sew the Rows
Sew seam lines on the narrowest part of the rectangle every 1/2″. In the end I had 100 lines. This may take some time, but it's fantastic practice for getting familiar with your sewing machine.
Step Three: Power the Cord
This part is tricky because you will have to find the best way to pass the cord through all these rows, 50 in total. I use a darning needle and wound some fairly thick thread to the end of the rope and sewed a few stitches with a cross stitch needle. I will now start passing the cord through the rows.
Feed the cord every other row. Total 50 lines. Stay between the same layer of printed and plain canvas. This will give the rug two distinctive sides. One with higher ridges of the cord and one with slightly lower ridges.
Leave about an inch hanging over the side of each strand to secure the cord. You can also decide if you want to leave the cord loops visible for decoration purposes. If you don't do this, there is no need to keep the cord as one long piece, which can be difficult to manage and pass all the way through the mat with each turn. You can simply do a few turns and start with a new section of cord.
I'm sure some readers will find easier ways to do this, so share your ideas in the comments below.
After passing the cord through all 50 rows, sew around the rug 1/4″ from the edge. This is to join all the edges and secure the cords very firmly.
If you don't want cords as decoration (I didn't), cut the ends that stick out from the rug.
Step four: make the fringe
I use my 6″ quilting ruler to create this fringe. Take the woolen thread and stick it to the corner of the ruler.
Wrap the wool around the ruler no more than 6 inches at a time. It gets messy and difficult to handle if you wrap the wool wider.
Cut the strand of wool and place the tape in the middle across the entire width of the wrapped wool to hold the strands in place. Do this on both sides of the ruler.
Cut the tops of the wool strands with small scissors.
Cut off the bottom. This is what it looks like at this point.
Peel off the tape at the bottom. Gravity and the ribbon will hold the strands of wool in a single line. It doesn't have to be perfect since the fringed edge is supposed to look shaggy, but do your best.
Turn your ruler and do the same on the other side.
Step Five: Sew the Fringe
Take all the strands of wool and gently position them on the top edge of the rug.
Taking care to leave about 2.5″ hanging over the edge.
Using a small zigzag stitch, sew the strands of wool to the edge of the rug. A skein of yarn should be large enough to make the top and bottom of the rug. If you want to go around the entire rug, you will need 2 more skeins of wool, 197 yards each.
Sixth step: Optional, application of anti-slip glue
Finally, although the canvas and cord already make the mat somewhat non-slip, if you have young children and want to make the mat even more non-slip, use the low temperature glue gun to apply a few lines or dots of glue to the crests. at the bottom of the rug where the cord is sewn. A stitch every inch or two should do the trick. Of course, let the glue dry before placing the rug on the floor. We're not trying to stick it to the floor or anything, but just adding a few sticky contact points that will keep the mat from sliding.
My floors are marble and the carpet doesn't slip much. I tested the mat on hardwood floors and it slides a little more, so that would be a good extra step to take although it's certainly not required. There would be no problem on carpet and the carpet hangs easily to dry once the storm passes…
One of the things I really enjoy about this mat is the therapeutic massage the cord gives my feet. It feels great while brushing my teeth or right after a hot shower. But most importantly, it catches all the water that drains from the invisible giant poodle that lives in my house.
PS I also tested it on my real dog George and he approves!
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