Darts – these wonderful triangle shaped pleats help shape flat fabric to fit our individual bumps and curves. In addition to giving our clothing a structural function, darts can add interesting design details to an otherwise simple garment. Sewing clips are an important part of garment construction.
Sewing darts is easy. But, like most things in sewing, “easy” doesn't always yield perfect results. Once I found the trick that worked for me (which I'll be sure to include here, you'll be SHOCKED), I've never sewn a bad dart.
Here are some tips for making perfect darts:
When marking fabric to sew a dart, use a tracing wheel and tracing paper.
Press the darts before topstitching to help eliminate show-through seam allowances.
Avoid fraying cut seam allowances by overlocking, zigzagging, or applying a bead of seam sealer to the raw edges.
If the fabric does not have the usual tracing marks, use custom pins.
Sew from the ends of the dart legs (widest point) to the end point.
Backstitch when you start sewing, but don't backstitch at the end of the stitch. Sometimes it can cause wrinkling if not done absolutely perfectly.
At the end of the dart, simply leave a long tail wire and tie its end near the tip of the dart (Fig. 1).
To avoid a “shadow” appearing when you press, be sure to iron the clip using a pressing cloth between the clip and the garment.
If the dart is very deep or in a thick fabric like wool or fleece, trim and trim the excess dart on the wrong side of the fabric to reduce bulk.
Pin horizontally on the clip so that it is easy to remove the pins as you sew (Fig. 2).
Now for my number one tip for sewing perfect darts: pressing. Since I've been sewing, my darts haven't been perfect. The reason is that I didn't take the extra step of pressing them properly. It is important to press the clamp in the direction indicated on the sewing guide sheet. Don't underestimate this direction. If you press the wrong way, the dart will not sit correctly. I press my darts on a squeeze the ham so that the act of pressing shapes the fabric into a position that mimics the body's hump. I also give the outer fabric a quick press and use a little steam if the fabric can tolerate it.
If you are already an expert in sewing darts, tell us: how to make perfect darts? There are always several ways to pet a cat.